Below:
Hôtel Negresco on the Promenade des Anglais (Picture: Franck Follet)
GILLIAN
THORNTON of
Destination France heads for the Côte
d'Azur as Nice celebrates a special anniversary this year with 150 community projects
all over the city - Spring Edition 2010
Mention
the name Nice and even people who've never been there have a mental picture of
this iconic Riviera resort with its shining super yachts, smart hotels, historic
buildings and fashionable boutiques.
Nice
epitomises the elegance and affluence of the south of France and yet the city
has only been French for 150 years. In June 1860, it was handed over to Emperor
Napoleon III by Victor Emmanuel, leader of the state of Savoie, in return for
military support. This year, the anniversary is being marked with 150 individual
community projects, all aimed at making this delightful city even more attractive.
Facades will be renovated, gardens landscaped and buildings restored, so if you've
never enjoyed the unique atmosphere of France's fifth largest city, there couldn't
be a better time to visit. The city is easily accessible from the UK by low cost
flight or by train via Paris.
Left: cadran solaire
Sundial on the seafront (Picture: Franck Follet) Nice
was founded by the Greeks who established a strategic trading post, Nikaia, on
the hill above the bay during the 4th century BC. Today La Colline du Château
is a must for first-time visitors, a shady vantage point that offers fabulous
views over the yacht marina and ferry port in one direction, and the terracotta
tiles of the old town and the Mediterranean promenade in the other.
Left: Nice Carnival
takes place in February (Picture: Isabelle Beauregard / OTCN)
The
Romans followed the Greeks, establishing their own town of Cemenelum on Cimiez
hill behind the shore. Today their ruined buildings are just a bus ride from the
city centre, close to the 17th century Genoese villa which houses the popular
museum dedicated to the artist Matisse, who came here as a young man and never
left. But it was the Brits who put Nice firmly on the tourist map, turning it
into an essential stopover for the wealthy and wannabes of the 19th century. The
footpath around the Baie des Anges - the aptly named Bay of Angels - was widened
in 1820 by an Englishman, Reverend Lewis Way. Palm trees and pergolas followed
and soon the Promenade was the place to see and be seen.
Left: vue Nice - Nice's 10km coastline (Picture: J Kelogapian)
Today
the 10km city coastline includes 7.5km of beach - 15 private beaches as well as
ample public areas - and the Promenade is reserved for pedestrians, cyclists and
roller skaters. As it sweeps eastwards towards the site of the first Greek settlement,
this stylish street morphs into the Quai des Etats-Unis. Elsewhere in the city,
the visiting Russian aristocrats are remembered through their opulent domed cathedral
and villas.
Left: bord de mer Bay of Angels (Picture: Ville de Nice) Behind
the Quai des Etats-Unis lies the Old Town, another must-see for Nice novices,
but a corner of the city that repeatedly draws in seasoned visitors with its Baroque
churches, balconied buildings and hidden courtyards. Enjoy people-watching from
a pavement café and strolling the flower stalls of Cours Saleya - every day except
Monday when antique sellers replace the florists.
Left: marche fleurs
- The flower market (Picture: Hugues Lagarde) Nice
boasts one of the most important concentrations of antique shops in France, packed
in between the port and Rue Ségurane. In fact the town centre is packed with all
sorts of tempting boutiques to part you from your money, but Nice doesn't have
to blow a hole in the budget. It may have ultra-chic hotels like the historic
Hôtel Negresco on the seafront, but my student daughter bagged a bargain room
in a city centre hostel just a couple of blocks away and had huge fun.
Left: marche fleurs
The flower market (Picture: Hugues Lagarde) There
are restaurants to suit all pockets from Michelin-starred establishments to good-value
brasseries and wine bars. Or pick up a budget snack on the move at one of the
many street stalls and fast food outlets. Bypass ubiquitous MacDo in favour of
a Niçoise speciality such as pan-bagnat (a small round loaf drizzled with
olive oil and packed with tuna, salad and black olives); pissaladière (onion
tart with anchovy fillets and black olives); or socca (a thin pancake cooked on
a wood-burning stove).
Left: musee Masséna
- Palais Masséna Museum (Picture: Ville de Nice)
Culture
can also come cheap. Choose from 19 museums and galleries - the largest concentration
after Paris - which together cover a wide range of styles and periods. Admission
to all municipal museums is free, but some close Mondays and others on Tuesdays,
so check before you travel. Nice is an easy city to explore on foot or public
transport. Ride the new tramway system which passes 13 monumental sculptures,
all specially commissioned to enhance the route and illuminated after dark.
xx 
Above
musee mamac - The Mamac Museum, one of 19 in Nice (Picture: Ville de Nice) - musee
matisse - The Matisse Museum, dedicated to the artist who made Nice his home (Ville
de Nice)
As
night falls, treat yourself to a night at the opera, enjoy a recital by the Nice
Baroque Ensemble, or get into the groove at a jazz concert. Or simply stroll beneath
the lights of the Promenade des Anglais and listen to the soothing sound of waves
lapping the shore. Visit in February to enjoy two weeks of parades and partying
at the annual Nice Carnival, but there's a wide variety of atmospheric events
across the year including an arts and crafts market along Cours Saleya on summer
evenings.
If
you can linger longer, Nice lies at the gateway of the spectacular Mercantour
National Park, a paradise for hikers and adventure sports enthusiasts. Discover
the fascinating relationship between man and wolf - past and present - at the
Alpha wolf park in St-Martin-Vésubie or take the Train des Merveilles from the
city centre for a picturesque ride through the mountains towards Tende. But with
so much to do in this captivating city, you may have to leave outside temptations
for another time. And there will be another time, because one visit to Nice is
never enough!
MORE
INFO:
Nice
Convention and Visitors Bureau 5 Promenade des Anglais
Tel:
00 33 (0)892 707 407 www.nicetourisme.com
WHERE
TO STAY:
Palais
de la Méditerranée 13 Promenade des Anglais Tel:
00 33 (0)492 14 77 00
www.lepalaisdelamediterranee.com
Five star
La
Pérouse 11 Quai Rauba Capeu Tel: 00 33 (0)4 93 62
34 63 www.hotel-la-perouse.com
Four star
Mercure
Nice Promenade des Anglais 2 Rue Halévy Tel: 00 33
(0)493 82 30 88 www.mercure.com
Three star
Villa
Rivoli 10 Rue de Rivoli Tel: 00 33 (0)493 88 80 25
www.villa-rivoli.com
Two star
WHERE
TO EAT:
L'Escalinada
22 rue Pairolière Tel: 00 33 (0)493 62 11 71
www.escalinada.fr
Local cuisine in the atmospheric heart of the old
town
Au
Petit Gari 2 Place Garibaldi Tel: 00 33 (0)493 26
89 09 www.aupetitgari.com
Bistro fare and informal atmosphere beneath the arcades
of Place Garibaldi
Le
Boccaccio 7 rue Masséna Tel: 00 33 (0)493 87 71 76
www.boccaccio-nice.com
Fresh fish and sublime seafood inside mock 16th century
sailing ship
©Article
- Destination France - March 2010 ©Photographs by arrangement with Destination
France and credits by each individual photograph.